- Portable Power Station
- Solar Panel
- Lithium Battery Pack
- Solar Energy Storage
- Primary Battery
- Rechargeable Batteries
- Branded Battery
- Dry Battery
- Battery Accessories
How to Rebuild a BionX E-Bike Lithium-Ion Battery Pack
This Instructure will show you how to replace lithium-
Ion cells in wearout BionX e-
The bike battery pack restores the range you have lost, or even greatly exceeds it.
It will also show you how to replace the original device charger with a high quality balance charger so you can get the most out of the rebuilt battery.
CANBus, rear rack, 37 V, 6 v. 4 Amp-hours, 236. 8 Watt-
Hour battery in my Dahon MuP8 e-
The bike worked reliably for two years, but shortly after the warranty period expired, even if I did all the pedals, the mileage dropped from 10 miles to 2 miles, so now is the time to open it and see what can be done.
Inside, I found that BionX has packed 40 1,600 mahr us18. 0v lithium-
The ion battery enters a cavity that can hold 60 people and simply fills the blank space with foam blocks.
When I quickly realized that I could replace the original 40 batteries with a new battery that is twice the capacity and add 20 batteries, it provided an interesting opportunity, this will give me three times the original range and add only a few pounds of weight at the same time.
The trick is then to figure out how to do this without damaging the battery or the bank.
I found a lot of videos on the Internet showing how to build e-commerce
Bicycle battery pack, but due to the unusual nature of its structure, few people rebuild the BionX battery pack.
I would also like to convert my package to 48 V and replace its electronics as needed, but this is more expensive than expected, so decided to keep the existing smart connection ver 5.
2 Control boards as it still works fine I can keep all the original BionX features
Going by bike is quite extensive.
This means that the new package has to stay at 37 V, but I can convert it from 10s4 p to 10s6 p and increase the number of batteries to 60, thus increasing the number of batteries by 50%
To increase the battery capacity, I chose to replace them with Panasonic ncr18ymb batteries, which is the same as the batteries of the Tesla Model S electric vehicle.
They can provide a continuous 10 am ps with a capacity of 3,400 mahr-
More than twice what they want to replace. -
This will increase the capacity by 100% and give me a total gain of 150%.
I also want to charge the package with a balance charger instead of using my original BionX charger so I can better track the condition of the package.
The BionX 37 volt charger relies on a low 2 amp charging rate, a temperature sensor, and some control circuitry to determine the endof-charge.
Although this is a very safe way to charge.
Under normal conditions, the battery pack lacks a battery management system (BMS), which means that the battery cannot lose too much balance during use.
One or more cell groups still have the potential to become unbalanced as they grow older, which can lead to a decline in production and packaging is no longer fully charged.
In my opinion, it\'s better to use a high quality balance charger when they monitor the voltage of each battery pack and automatically balance them to a few millivolts as the charge progresses.
They can also remind you if there are any cell groups below
Execute relative to others and let you make adjustments or interventions if something goes wrong.
But I don\'t have a balance port for my BionX battery pack, so I have to add one.
Please note that I have shown you this note with a non-
Business shares a similar license, which allows you to use it for your own purposes as long as you don\'t try to profit from business.
But also, I have to give you a stern warning and Disclaimer: This project is not suitable for beginners.
If your welding skills are just \"normal\", please do not try, because you can easily shorten the packaging if you are a little sloppy or do not follow proper safety precautions.
People accidentally use lithium to cause fire and/or injury
So before starting this project, I want you to have a clear idea of the dangers involved.
I am not responsible for the use or misuse of the information provided here.
What you do with it is entirely up to you and at your own risk.
Let\'s get started!
Despite the dangers, there are ways to protect yourself and reduce the risk of fire.
Obviously, the first one is to prepare the fire extinguisher at any time.
Mine is the first warning ABC dry chemical type available to any hardware store.
Next, make sure to use good eye protection, gloves and ventilation equipment during the construction process, and remember to remove any rings, watches and jewelry in advance.
Finally, you should charge your battery in the fire
Even after your charging program proves that you are safe and reliable, this is the case with an explosion-proof box or bag.
I used a big and heavy bag called \"hovercraft fire-proof hovercraft bag\" and I bought this bag from Amazon for $60.
It is designed to fully contain the hovercraft fire.
Bags like this are very good, cheap fire insurance that will save you from disaster.
I left the original BionX charging circuit and 4-
The pin XLR connector is in good condition, so I can use the original charger if my balance charger idea doesn\'t work, but I\'m happy to report that the new charger is very successful and I don\'t use the old one anymore.
However, I can still use it as a portable spare part and possibly carry it with me on a long trip.
However, for regular charging, I highly recommend using a high quality balance charger as it allows you to fully control all ten battery packs, allowing you to monitor their charging and discharge voltage, display its internal resistance, change the voltage and current settings, and easily track the overall condition of the package.
My Charger is the iCharger 4010 duo I purchased from Progressive RC for $350.
Not cheap, but it charges up to 75 amps and is one of the few things I \'ve found to be able to balance the charge of a 10 s pack without having to split the pack into two parts.
However, it does not have a DC power supply, so please be prepared to purchase or provide it separately if you purchase one.
To upgrade, you will need 60 new Panasonic ncr18ypb batteries (or equivalent) that are available from many suppliers online.
If you live overseas and may need hazmat shipping method, please pay attention to the postal regulations.
You can use recycled batteries from old laptop batteries, but you can\'t get the capacity you can get with these new batteries, and over time, matching their internal resistors is problematic at best
And you can\'t escape the fact that the older the cells, the faster they get worse because you don\'t know their age, you may find yourself having a poor performance bag soon.
My advice is to spend money now on high quality new cells so you don\'t have to spend any more later.
As you may have guessed by now, this is not a cheap project.
With new batteries, chargers, various parts, tools and international shipping, I could have spent more than $1,000-
Even more expensive than the new packaging BionX brought me.
However, my new battery (hopefully) will be twice as long as my old one, with a much lower cost per mile per charge three times, and I managed to take one person apart and rebuild, the knowledge gained is invaluable to me.
But errors can be expensive, so be sure to know exactly what you are doing before you solve this project.
Also know that this item is likely to void your warranty.
So I would suggest that you do not try before the warranty expires so as not to lose the support of BionX, which is generally good at warranty replacement.
My warranty has expired and overseas shipping regulations make it difficult and expensive for me to buy a replacement battery, so rebuilding my bag is my only option.
You need these parts: these tools: you may find another surprise waiting for you when you remove the battery: point-to-point wiring.
In order to save space and reduce costs, BionX apparently chose to give up the connectors and weld their packages together using very hard thick twisted wires.
However, the field voltage is dangerous, so I installed the Deans Ultra plug-ins and XT60 connectors to improve safety and make it easier for me to fix it myself later.
I now have to pull a few connectors to pull out the battery or electronic board without having to cut them out with a diagonal cutter.
I also found that the thick twisted wires were hard to bend in the small space they could use, so I replaced most of them with super wires
Flexible wires of the same or heavier specifications make it easier to reassemble.
Be sure to pull the 30 amp Auto before cutting the wire
Style fuses the electronic board and takes a photo of everything in order to record how everything is connected together.
I like to make \"pencil CAD\" drawings, which also forces me to track the end of each wireto-
Finish and learn more about the layout.
As the space there is very tight, you have to be extra careful with the connector and wire length when putting everything back in.
My backpack has two temperature sensors. -
One is a hot switch glued to the top of the package, and the other is a 10 k thermal resistor glued to the battery inside the package.
When the package temperature exceeds a certain level, the hot switch is turned on during charging and acts as a fault-
In case the package is overheated, cut off safely.
The thermal resistor monitors the temperature of the package during the discharge process and can signal to the microprocessor to reduce the power of the motor, for example, climbing a long hill to prevent damage to the package.
I would recommend that you keep both devices and stick them to the new package using the Arctic alumina thermal adhesive.
You should also reconnect them to the circuit using the appropriate connectors instead of splicing them together.
For this I used some old, small brushless motor connectors that I found in the garbage box and covered them to prevent shorts.
Now we are at the new port of balance.
This part took a lot of thought, but did a good job.
What is needed is a small, robust 12-
22 measuring lines and frequently inserted pin connector groups may be required.
After many searches, I found a 20mm air flight-style 12-
Pins and sockets on EBay. The silver-
The plating pins for this pair of connectors can pass up to 5 amps, and both connectors can be installed in the space opposite the battery piston lock.
The wire comes from a length of 12-
I also found conductor stranded cable 22 on eBay.
Each wire has a different color, which can help you avoid confusion when connecting different cell groups.
When soldering pins, before connecting the wires and pins together, make sure to weld them together and then cover the joints with 1. Heat shrinkage of 5mm.
Works outward from the center, that is, pin 12 works downwards, because you will not be able to reach the internal pin if you work upwards from pin 1.
You don\'t need the 12 th pin, but I still put a wire on it in case I need it later.
If you organize the color according to the standard resistor color code, I. e.
The ground is black, the cells No. 1 are brown, and the cells No. 2 are red.
, You will find it easy to put them into the connector in the correct order.
In addition, the external insulation of the stripped Cable will make it easier to use a single wire.
After you\'re done, you can always turn them around by putting them in an electric drill.
The connectors attached to the battery have to be smaller but don\'t have to be so sturdy, so I chose two cheap male 6-pin JST-
XH connector, one for grounding and Battery 1-
5, cells 6-110.
These pins, which are usually used on the board, must be welded very carefully on the wire because they are very thin and can easily melt the plastic.
The battery will get the busbars of these connectors, and different wire colors will tell you which connector matches which connector.
A separate 2 feet.
Cable is required for charger.
This will require a female aviation plug at one end and 11-pin female JST-
XH connector on the other, follow the same color order.
Installing the balance Port socket, I built a stand with a 1/8 thick birch plywood and polished it into exactly the right shape using the Dremel drum sander, to fit the blank space opposite the piston lock.
If you do the same, install the socket on plywood without rubber gasket with M2 flat head bolt (with nut) and then use strong glue such as black CA, make as much wood as possible on the sideto-
Plastic contact as much as possible.
Bonds need to be like 12-
Pin air plug needs to pull some force from the socket.
Glue it at a certain angle to hold the long plug and make sure that the socket does not touch the rack assembly when you slide the battery in place.
After trimming off the excess rubber, I have plenty of room to put on the dust cap (see photo ).
Keep in mind that the cable must also enter the battery box through a 1/2 hole.
To cut this hole, I used a 90 degree attachment on my Dremel, but the result was not very beautiful.
The Dremel Flex axis might be a better tool, but I didn\'t have it at the time.
For the Charger power inlet, I chose to glue on the female XT60 connector near the piston lock, mainly because I wanted to keep it safe from rain and I couldn\'t find the XLR connector to install the original BionX side connector.
Although the XT60 is suitable for small spaces and works fine, it does add more wires to the electronic cavity, making it more crowded.
If you can find a male XLR connector that fits your BionX connector, then I suggest you do this or cut it off from the old BionX charger and use it to make new cables for the new charger.
This saves some space in the cavity.
If you do use the XT60 connector, then install it very carefully, because when you slide the battery in place, it has enough space to install without hitting the rear rack.
The original battery pack is packed in a layered 7-6-
Use a customized 7 cell scheme
Cut CNC spot nickel-
Welding to overlapping 8-cell clusters.
I have no position-
Welder, I don\'t want to build or buy one either, so I used 1/4 \"pre-
In order to build my packaging, tin-plated ground weave and Weld.
This works well and is easier to make than welding nickel sheets on batteries or even belts, but it has to be very careful to weld the right batteries together.
After careful consideration, I decided to stay in an apartment. to-
Cell layout connecting single row cells (see drawing) instead of modifying the original 8-
Unit overlap cluster design for 10s6 p packages.
The latter requires 12 cells to overlap with each other, which makes it very difficult to build a neat package.
Use braids that are more flexible than nickel bars and attach them to the batteryto-
The battery also allows for more accurate welding and minimal heat transfer to the battery.
Braids do need some custom styling of their own, but by cutting the gap and pre-
Weld the angles into them to accommodate the change in direction (see Step 7 ).
At this point, it is a good idea to make a flaky insulator with a stickon fish-
Paper or other sticks
Peel one of the insulators from the old battery and make six exact copies as a template.
Don\'t try to use the old insulator in the new battery pool as they may not stick to it very well.
In addition, 60 lives are created or acquired
18mm diameter fish
Paper insulator for positive terminal--
You don\'t need them for negative purposes.
These will help prevent the braid from bridging the short distance between the positive and negative can lips.
I don\'t have holes, so I have to invent a 8mm hole punch and knock them off with my hands.
Also, although they are still loose, wipe the cells at both ends to reverse the movement with clean drawings under the thumbMetal Scotch whisky
Brite (supermarket variety is good) and blows away any dust formed.
Do not use sandpaper, because if the sand has any conductive effect, the sand will stick under the lips of the jar and cause shorts.
I suggest you do full-
The size map of the battery end (both ends, all three components) in order to be able to visualize the battery and the weaving position.
On a long piece of paper (such as an open envelope cut), use the old insulator again as a template and draw six images in two rows and three (see picture ).
Use a 18mm diameter gasket with 10mm holes, draw on the positive and negative poles, and then draw on the braids.
Carefully check the drawings at least a dozen times(seriously!
) Make sure the battery is in the right direction.
Believe me, you don\'t want any shorts.
Next, make a 130mm x 66mm box with warp yarnfree scrap-
Wood, extend the base about 1 feet in one direction so that it can be clipped to the table top (see picture ). With your full-
Larger unit layout drawing in front of you, place Kapton tape strips on the side of the unit, which will contact each other and place the first layer of seven units in the box of each drawingSpread hot-
Melt the glue on the tape in the valley, avoid the ends, beads as small as possible, then reverse the cells and glue the other side in a similar way.
The Kapton tape is resistant to a temperature of 500 degrees Fahrenheit.
And can easily withstand the hot weathermelt glue.
If you have to disassemble the package, you can peel the tape without destroying the heat shrink cover of the cell.
I didn\'t learn the trick until I put down the first layer of cells, but each layer was treated with adhesive tape.
The middle layer has 6 units, and the top layer has 7 units as the bottom layer.
When all three layers are assembled, stack them in the correct order and stick them together with Kapton tape.
Put a few glue on the end cells to prevent the layer from shifting.
Assemble the remaining clusters in the same way, follow your pencil drawing completely, and pay attention to the different unit locations in each cluster.
A sentence about welding technology before starting welding: a new 4mm chisel
Prompt at 50-click
Watt iron, frequently used flow, counts to three each time you touch a battery with hot iron, which is critical to avoid overheating and damaging the battery.
Whether you have a good combination or not, removing the iron after three seconds is a rule.
You can try again after the cells have cooled, but not more than twice.
It takes a bit of practice, but if your surface is clean, your iron is clean and you are already at the top and bottom of each surface as well as in front
Hold each surface tank, then there should be no trouble welding the battery together.
Next, place an assembled cell cluster in your box, fix it in place, and place life-
An insulator in the shape of a protective device at each front end, and then brush some liquid flux at all ends of the front and negative. With a new 4-mm chisel-
Prompt at 50-click
Watt soldering iron, put a drop of tin paste in the center of each end, be careful not to contact the battery with iron for more than three seconds.
Good quality 60/40 or 63/37 lead solder should flow quickly, covering almost the positive pole, about 1/4 of the center of the negative pole. Do not use lead-
There is no welding because it requires too much heat.
Prepare braids according to your drawings.
First make the shorter one, then save the longer one that connects the cluster together for later use.
Always make the pigtails together to avoid welding them together, which will require too much heat and will make the battery too long to fit the case.
With a sharp diagonal cutter, cut a 3/4 cut at the turn to form a bend, and use as little soldering tin as possible to weld the bending together (more soldering tin needs to be absorbed after the weaving layer to be combined with the battery end ).
Tap the welded curved parts with a small hammer and flatten them to the same thickness as the woven part.
Each braid should fit perfectly to the top of its corresponding cells without shedding
The center is bent without extra length.
The two exceptions are 6-
The front and negative end braids of the battery give you an extra length of around 1 inch, allowing you to weld on the red and black power cables.
Brush the flux on the entire welded side of the braid and mark it with the Sharpie pen at the center contact point of each unit.
Finally, put a small piece of solder on all the marked points and follow the three-second rule again to avoid excessive solder flow.
All you need is a small blob to match the cell.
Before testing the weaving, be sure to put a lot of blue masking tape at the end of the unit that is not connected together, leaving only the exposed tape.
This will help reduce accidental shorts.
To be on the safe side, I also tested each exposed battery with its neighbors with a voltmeter and then dropped the braid to determine that there was a voltage of 0 V between them.
If you find that you are going to weld two adjacent batteries, the voltage is shown between them and you will receive a spark when you drop the braid!
You should get something between 0 and 20 mV depending on how well the charge state of the cell is balanced before you start building.
My cells are new, and even though I delayed the construction for 3 months, when I finally built my bag, it still shows less than 10 mv between them.
When you are ready to weld the battery together, re-apply the flux to the top of the battery and the bottom of the braid where you can, place the braid in the appropriate position, and select a terminal unit for the first joint.
Because they\'re pre-
You do not need to use more welding when welding.
Apply the iron to the braids as flat as possible with one hand to pass the heat as soon as possible, count to three, then remove the iron and use the other hand in a smooth movement, when the welding is hardened, quickly press the small screwdriver onto the joint and fix it in place.
Again, the whole process should not be more than three seconds.
The touch in a few seconds should be cool.
If the bonding time is more than three seconds, then your iron may be less than 50 watts and will not be able to complete the task.
The smaller iron will force you to touch the braids for a longer period of time, and will actually pass too much heat into the cells, and the larger iron will be clumsy and will also pass too much heat, so I don\'t recommend them either.
Mine is the Hakko Presto 980 dual power iron which almost instantly goes from 20 W to 50 W when the button is pressed.
Complete the battery line from one end to the other, then remove any falling solder balls with a needle
Mouth tongs that prevent them from causing trouble later.
Cover this line of batteries with fresh masking tape and uncover the line you want to weld next.
The four braids that connect the clusters together will be longer and will require some extra care when building them.
All four will fold 180 degrees and require some high quality heat shrink units to prevent them from short-circuiting each other or short-circuiting the sides of the tank. The short-
There is no need for more than 3/16 \"across clusters-
The folded braid is no longer suitable for the inside of the shell.
Also, welding too much in these spans can cause them to not bend easily.
Place the Goot radiator clamps in the middle of the span and weld them in place at the same time, which may help you avoid this problem, but insulating the Clamp\'s chin with masking tape or sticking to the cardboard, so that they do not short-circuit on the jar.
Do not stick tape to the teeth of the chin, because in order to get a good heat flow, you need metal-to-metal contact.
These spans must be insulated with black tape, because once the welding is in place, you will not be able to install heat shrink tubes on them. The long-
The pigtails crossed must go through the length of the two unitsto-
Therefore, after folding between clusters, it takes 5 3/8 \"inches to cover the distance.
Before you form a braid, put on two heat shrink tubes so you can move them around while bending.
Two 3 \"blocks that overlap slightly in the middle, will give you some length adjustments later without having to cut them.
Next is the balance line. Cut 2 ft.
Length of all 12 colors and weld them to braids based on your drawings and resistance color codes.
I put their most convenient braid position on my drawing and numbered the spots 1 to 10 to match the series cell groups.
The black power cable woven belt also obtains the wire for the balanced grounding reference.
When the package is folded, the wire for the ground and Battery 1-
5 should run along the side of the package and the wire of the battery 6-
Should run along the other side.
Then test them with a voltmeter to make sure that each colored wire points to the correct series battery pack.
For the thermal resistor, trim most of the old glue carefully and re-
Use the Arctic alumina hot epoxy resin to glue it to one of the intermediate layer units in the groove on the side of the black power cable.
Weld a thermal resistor wire to the black power cord weave and extend the other wire to the electronic plate area using the 12 th wire (pink.
I have added a small brushless motor connector here so that it can be easily disconnected later.
It takes a bit of skill to fold the three clusters together.
In the process, you don\'t want the braids to touch each other, or even for a short period of contact, so put some temporary cardboard insulator on the end to prevent the shorts.
You also don\'t want the braid to be twisted, so be very careful when flipping the cluster when you are balancing the tape in the side groove.
Wires must not add any width or length to the package.
All the wires are loose and the package is still Z-
Shape remove cardboard and stick to fish-
The paper insulator you made before.
Fold the package into the final shape, make sure the cluster is folded together evenly and tightly, and then pull the Balance line into the final position.
Even a slight change in the width of the 1/16 \"package, such as a slight tilt or balance line located on the outer edge of the cell, can prevent the half part of the shell from closing normally.
Some attention will also be paid to power cables.
The length of black and red is 11\"
Bend the wire and weld it to the female XT60 connector.
I used the radiator clip here again to prevent the solder from clogging the cable and hardening the wire.
Don\'t forget to install heat shrink tubes for connector pins and pigtails ends, and then weld them to their respective pigtails.
The black negative cable will extend along the side groove next to the middle cell layer.
The red positive cable only needs to exit the front of the battery, but in order to avoid damaging the braids it is connected to, you may have to go around 180 degrees in its groove.
Any cycle and tape over 22 ga.
The wires in the side grooves to keep the length as short as possible, because the space used for extra wiring in the front cavity is very small.
The last battery wiring is to put two 6-pin female JST-
Balance the connecters connector on the line.
As with the aviation connector cable, the ground and battery wires 1-5 JST-
Cells connector and Battery 6-wire
The other one went in.
I soldered the female pin on the wire with the \"aid hand\", but if you have a curler then use it anyway.
Please be sure to avoid \"insulation creep\" at the connector pins and be careful to insert the pins into the connector body as you do not want them to be in contact with each other.
You should really put them in the connector first and then weld the wires to the battery, but it can be tricky to accurately measure the length of the wires while the packaging is still on.
Another option is pre-
Connect the connectors, weld the battery points with different lengths of wires, and then after the package is fully folded, splice them somewhere in the side groove and heat shrink.
The wire connectors can work as well, but they use wires that are thinner than my 22nd and don\'t follow my color scheme, so I choose not to use them.
Once the packaging is folded and the wires are sorted out, you can tie the three cell clusters together with Kapton tape.
The shape of the package should then be kept well enough to be handled.
Check that there is no skew between the clusters, and the fewer braids of the interconnect extend from the side.
Now you can cut a large, 190mm-inch shrink package to fit the battery with a 4 inch stand out on both ends, slide into the battery and shrink it.
Flatten the end flaps with gloves-on fingers.
Do not use foam padding because there is no space.
The last step is to stick the old hot switch back to the correct position at the top of the package.
Cut it off from the old shrink wrap (don\'t try to rip it off completely because you might damage the switch) stick it to the new shrink wrap with Arctic alumina hot glue.
I also replaced its wire with a more flexible wire and added a Deans Ultra connector for easy disassembly later.
A switch wire is connected to the XLR charging connector, and one is connected to the electronic board, which makes no difference.
After a final check with a voltmeter to make sure everything is OK with the packaging and balance line, it\'s time to sit down and have a drink and appreciate your craft!
At this point, it is a good idea to replace some very stiff BionX power cables with more flexible wires to make final assembly easier, but only when you are skilled will this be done
The board is a shape-preserving coating for moisture-proof and durability, and can break the wire without damaging the board or components.
If you have a dewelding station or at least a good one, please use the dewelding station
Suction cups and all kinds of pliers
The Down tool is mandatory.
Now you can test whether the finished battery is suitable for its enclosure.
If you use braids, you may find that the battery is too long to fit into the molded case-
In the station designed for spot-
However, I can only make my battery fit by cutting off the back block, includes two straight plastic rods about 1/8 wide and a long time of about 1 inch parallel to the rear screw channel and close to the rear screw channel (see figure ).
The screw access, which is only 1/4 away from the hotel, will be a great place for your new station.
However, it is important to choose the right tool to cut the excess plastic.
The best tool for me is a 9mm cm wide open back transparent band blade saw-tool 4-in-1 saw set.
It cuts the fine strips very well and the sides are flat. The Z-
Use a combination of Xacto blades and Dremel plastic cutting bits to handle the block of shape.
If you find that half of your shell isn\'t too close along the way, it\'s probably because there\'s so much to highlight on your battery.
I found one of the short fold braids sticking out 1/6 at the fold point that touched the side wall of the shell.
Fortunately, in that position, the other plastic rod, which is about 1/2 \"1/16 wide\" deep, extends to the full length of the side of the shell.
Dremel cut a beautiful turf in the bar, which gave me enough space to fit the folded braids.
By successfully testing the battery and housing, you can now install the electronic board in its cavity.
As I guessed on the length, I found my power supply and braided cables too long, so had to shorten them.
However, with the presence of field voltage, it\'s a bit risky to say the least!
I rebuilt my connector carefully, but in retrospect I suggest you splice the wires somewhere in the middle
On their length, cover them with a heat shrink to avoid the possibility of producing shorts.
I chose 10 am ps for my first charge and I calculated it to be slightly lower than 0.
5 °c, but after entering the charge for about 30 minutes, the hot switch is turned on.
I then lowered the charge to 8.
2 amps, about 0.
4 C, it can work properly without suspension.
That said, until I decided to do a full cycle test to determine the full capacity of the package.
Discharge at 2.
0 amps did not happen, but the following charge was completed at 8.
2 amps, when the package is overheated, cause the hot switch to turn on again within a distance of about 3/4.
The charging time seems to be longer from the full discharge State (3.
0 V/cell) my fantasy is not very good --
The Dancy hoverboard fire protection bag may be like a valid thermal blanket and does not allow any ventilation to dissipate heat.
So I\'m glad I reinstalled the switch because it protected my new battery from damage.
The lesson learned in this way, I now charge the package at 6.
0 amps, while opening the top flap of the bag, there has been no heat accumulation or suspension since then.
It takes more than two hours at 6.
Charge 0 amps from nominal 3 to package.
7 V/G, it may take five hours to start with a fully depleted 3. 0 volts/cell.
However, I will not let the packaging drop to such a low level, nor do I intend to do cycle testing more than once a year.
I don\'t charge more than 4 either.
Even if the rated voltage of the new battery is 4 V/battery.
2 volts, which gives me about 98% capacity.
My internet source told me that the battery will last twice the charging cycle, and that it was sacrificed for 0 minutes in these minutes.
1 v representative is very worth it!
By the way, if you keep your bag in the warehouse for a long time, it is recommended to reduce the charge to 2.
0 amp, charge the package every six months or whenever it is packaged \"chirping.
At this point, the cells are close to 3.
7 V/g, this is where the control board suggests you go home and charge your backpack.
The idea is to give you some reserves, but try to avoid unloading on your way home.
The same monitoring occurs during storage, but a lower charging rate will help to balance the battery without affecting it.
So, what is the performance of the new package?
The bike is now easy to travel 20 miles with just one charge, often very steep on the hills of my city and kept above 36 volts all the time, I believe if I let the voltage down, I can make it 30 miles and I can make more pedals.
If I live in a flat city, use only BionX torque
I can probably extend it to 40 miles.
Now, it takes me at least a week, including commuting to and from work every day and various shopping trips, while I used to take an average of just a day or two.
On the best day, it\'s easy to triple the capacity of the old battery, and no matter how hard it is for me to ride a bike, the power is strong and there is no depression or heat build-up.
Since I rarely let the charging voltage below 36 V, I could almost avoid the chirchir sound from the package and tell me it\'s time to go home and pack up the toys.
The loop test is displayed as full 18. 4 Ah (680.
The capacity of 8 Wh) may reach 19.
0 AH (703 Wh), if I let the charge reach 42 volts.
By contrast, 6 of my old battery. 4 Ah (236.
8 Wh) rating, I don\'t think it\'s that good even with the new rating.
As for the weight, the package is now 9 lbs.
0 lbs, from 6. 5 lbs for a 2. 5 lb gain --
Double the range of the old package, which is not a bad weight loss!
I am very satisfied with the performance!
So now that you have a new 10s6 p battery pack, you are moving fast on your electronics
The bike enjoys fresh air, but from time to time you want to see how the ten groups perform.
You notice that the battery indicator in the BionX control panel shows \"empty\" at about 10 miles, although you know that you are still above 38 volts in this range--
At least 10 miles away, maybe 20 miles if you relax on the throttle.
To find out how much fuel tank you have left, you can use the digital battery capacity checker available on eBay and Amazon.
They are cheap and work surprisingly well, but only built for 7 cells at most.
To work on 10 batteries, you need an adapter line that is connected to the balance port of the battery at one end and divided into two 6-pin JST-
Connector on the other end.
You then connect the connector for two separate unit groups;
Ground and cells 1 to 5 and cells 5 to 10.
This is not a typographical error.
The important thing to keep in mind is that the positive pole of battery 5 on connector #1 must be separated and act as the ground wire of Battery 6 on connector #2.
As long as there is ground, the battery checker does not care where the ground is and the battery voltage rises from there in the appropriate order.
Since the two connectors are not connected at the same time, there is no risk of short circuit between them.
Just remember to always insert the connector to the right of the check pin marked \"6\" and \"7\" (You can also use 8-
Pin connectors, no pins 6 and 7 are connected ).
While the battery must be removed from the rack every time it is checked, the low cost, light weight, and easy-to-read display of the inspector makes up for this.
Don\'t forget to vote for your favorite circuit items!
Good luck, safe driving and a pleasant walk!