Basics: Coin Cell Battery Bank

I like to use the CR2032 coin cell in the project.
They are small and 3 volts.
When they don\'t have enough money to run the project, I throw them in a jar, hoping that one day I will do a Coke thief or something to take advantage of the rest of the cost.
There is another way.
I found the idea to be an effective way to use those old 3 Volt batteries that roll out less than 2 volts.
My first effort was to buy a bunch of two.
Battery stand with switch.
The switch is the best part.
However, these wires are too thin and they always fall off before my interest in this project disappears.
That\'s not the answer.
Then I got these single cell brackets.
I am trying to weld the wire to the lead and make a series of sheets
Such a battery.
These containers usually fall apart, or the wires break, or bad things happen.
Finally I got the idea and it seems to work well.
Basically, it comes down to a quasi-
Printed circuit board, but cut into one groove
Double-sided copper clad plate instead of printing circuit. Let\'s begin.
The tools I use are the ones I use a lot.
Some of them may be replaced.
The material includes the following: I made my template with Paint and then copied it to the ApacheOffice Writer document for printing.
This is not rocket science, but I have attached a PDF of the file I used.
The key is that in order to place the coin battery stand most effectively, you need to bring the board close to 2 \"x 3 3/8 \".
Please note that I have described the coin battery stand so that the positive and negative end creates a tandem connection for the battery.
The small rectangular end is the positive side and the circular end is the negative side.
Please note that the pattern is round.
That is, one end of the rectangle points to the left and the other to the right.
This is important.
If you don\'t do this, you will short the battery and they will either cause a fire or burn out soon.
Print the template to the Avery tab.
I happen to have a very old box that once contained 5000 tags for a point
There are many matrix continuous paper printers.
I have been using these for years.
In my case, I need to re-
Position the label so that there is no gap between them.
I then print the template onto the label.
The purpose here is to make grooves on one side of the copper cladding to separate the positive and negative sides of the battery so that there is no electrical connection between the partitions.
In my case, it is necessary to paste the template to the polymer side of the board.
The reason is that I use a mini groove.
The table saw me doing it with the Dremel tool.
So, just like cutting the hand plate or other grooves on the wood.
They did it from below.
So I paste the template to the bottom;
Polymer Side of copper-clad board.
If you cut from the top close to the groove then you will paste the template onto the copperclad side.
Then you can simply keep your state
Cut the tool in your hand and follow the line.
I made a sledge for my mini sledge
The table saw and found it very useful for this purpose.
I raised the cutting wheel high enough to form a groove in copper and penetrate into the polymer backing.
I cut the board to 2 \"x 3 3/8\" using my template \"(or 5 mm x 8. 5 mm).
Because it is difficult to set the depth of the cutting wheel, I set it up to make the groove, not to cut the circuit board.
So, I made a cut on one side and then another on the other side to cut the board into the right size.
I can use this pair very easily. groove.
Then I cut a shallow slot on the copper. clad side.
The grooves are deep enough to penetrate the polymer backing and cut off various partitions from each other.
I cut three grooves.
Almost to the end, wisdom and a groove.
Looking closely at the picture with the groove, I put a note in the area where the groove stops.
If you use the top-
The method of cutting the groove is still the same basic goal.
Somehow you want to make grooves in copper to separate the individual parts.
If you use the coin cell stand as a pattern to mark the holes in the template and mark the template with them, it is easy to drill holes in the right place.
Just drill 1/16 holes on the plate at both ends of the battery.
You need 12 holes in total.
Now, according to the pattern on the template, install the battery stand on the polymer side and pass the contacts through the holes so that they penetrate the copper side.
In my case, I don\'t like the sharp points where the contacts stand out, so I bend them for a long time
Then weld them to the board.
Note that all batteries span grooves, thus separating the positive and negative poles of the battery and allowing the positive and negative poles of the battery series to connect one battery to the next.
It\'s a good idea to test the connection and non-connection after it\'s done
If you have an ohmmeter, connect with the ohmmeter.
I tested the copper side myself to make sure there is no connection between the partitions.
You can go further and when you add the battery, start at the top left corner (negative end)
, Connect the negative lead of the voltmeter to the copper plate there.
Then add the first battery to see if you get the reading on the voltmeter.
If so, continue with the next battery.
You should get higher and higher voltage as you move forward.
Note that in the copper side diagram related to this step, the grooves and welding connections are described.
Be sure to check the notes in the copper side drawing and they will tell you where to weld the positive and negative leads.
Follow these instructions.
I use the red lead of the positive and the black lead of the negative.
Make sure to weld the positive and negative leads to the end of the plate, where the longitudinal grooves are cut all the way to the end.
I have 1 battery for most of my batteries. 5 to 2. 5 volts.
If you measure each voltage, summarize it.
Then load the battery into the battery.
Measure the total voltage at the lead.
When you add a single voltage together, you should get roughly the same voltage sum on the voltmeter as you do.
You\'re not just using these six-
A battery pack with six batteries.
If you want to use four batteries, you just need to weld a lead in the gap between the two second batteries at the top.
If you want to use two batteries, you can weld a lead from the top in the gap between the two first batteries.
Take a look at the pictures that come with this step.
Later on, if you want to use more again, you just need to unlock the lead.
With a few switches, all of them can be easier. Your choice. Good Luck!
I should mention a few notes: 1.
If you decide to use fewer batteries and weld wires on the middle groove, make sure there is no battery in the lower battery.
They will get shorter and hotter. 2.
Keep in mind that the copper side of the circuit board is charged, and if placed on a metal surface, the probability of a short circuit is very high.
I suggest covering the entire copper side with some kind of insulator.
Transport tape, strapping tape, anything that will insulate the entire copper side of the circuit board and prevent accidental connection or short circuit. .