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Bad Stator Fix--Don\'t Buy a New Stator for Your Engine! Create a Battery-op Ignition System for Less Than $50
Your engine will not run well without a good stator.
The solution completely bypass the stator by using a 12 volt battery to power the ignition system.
Everything needed can be purchased under $50.
It will work on all contact breaker point engines (old style)
And some electronically controlled ignition (newer style)ones.
This guide is suitable for contact circuit breaker systems.
Note that, as mentioned earlier, the system will bypass the CDI section of the ignition system (if present)
Replace it in a more traditional way.
When I had the stator on my Honda XR, I designed this system
The 100 becomes so weak that it is unable to power the spark plug that prevents the engine from running.
The stator on my model happens to stop, and when this particular stator is known for being weak and easy to fail, I don\'t want to buy an old one for over $100.
FYI: on a small engine with no stator, the stator coil generates power for the spark plug and other accessories, and there will be no spark at all, which means that the engine will not run.
When the stator is scrapped, it generates a faint spark that causes the engine to fail or run poorly.
Symptoms usually deteriorate as the engine warms.
Ignition Coil: this requires a rather heavy coil.
I have tried using two general purpose coils for small engines before.
The two of them really exploded from the heat. (
I guess they\'re not designed for 12 volts in a row? )
I found (older)
Tank-type ignition coils designed for cars are suitable for this application and do not heat or explode.
I spent about $15 on Amazon to buy this one without a name.
12 V battery: Any 12 V battery can work.
This is the lead-acid type used for car batteries.
They sell small bike starters, backup power for security systems, etc.
I paid about $18 for a regular one on Amazon.
How to charge: see the possible method for the last page. $0-100.
Capacitors: Any capacitor used in the ignition system can work. (
I don\'t know the technical specifications).
I used part of the original ignition system on my dirty bike.
Resistance: this is to protect the ignition coil from excessive power.
Use a 2 ohm resistor with a rated power near 100 watts.
I bought a regular one from ebay for $5.
Switch off: as long as you are not the type you have to hold down, you can use the switch that comes with the engine.
My dirty bike has a hold-down style, so I bought a $5 toggle switch from Home Depot.
Flywheel rack removal tools: they sell Universal for most small engines on various websites.
I bought mine for about $10 on Amazon.
Insulation wiring crocodile clip sandpaper (optional)
I used the No. 18 insulated magnet line.
I will cut the part on the spool to the desired length, then polish the insulation from the end and attach the crocodile clip.
The way you route is personal preference, so if you want to buy a wire that is ready-made with a crocodile clip, or even weld all the connections without a clip, that\'s your choice.
Used to measure resistance and check continuity.
While not required, it is helpful for trouble shooting and checking to make sure everything is connected correctly.
These things are cheap and good tools for home.
The wiring of the system is somewhat flexible.
The series order of these parts is not important, but it is the easiest for the available space on your particular machine.
I would suggest fastening all the parts to the machine first and then connecting them together in the most convenient way.
The only thing that must be done as shown is the wiring between the ignition coil and the capacitor: the capacitor must be wired between the two terminals of the ignition coil.
** For an explanation of how to connect the system to the engine, see the next page ** for those familiar with electronic technology, each component is arbitrarily connected in series without regard to polarity.
The exception is the combination of ignition coils/capacitors in parallel and then in series with all other components.
Please forgive me for careless pictures;
I made it with paint.
I want to use a platform that allows me to use picture symbols instead of traditional electronic schematics that are not familiar to everyone. Notes: -
The two primary terminals on the ignition coil are shared by multiple components, so there will be two wires for each terminal. -
The raised Center terminal on the ignition coil provides the power supply to the spark plug.
This is where the spark plug-in is connected. (
For the electronics, it is the positive terminal of the secondary coil.
The negative pole of the secondary coil is shared with the negative pole of the primary coil)
It can be seen from the figure that further explanation is needed on how to connect the \"engine\" with other devices.
The only reason the line passes through the engine is to reach the contact circuit breaker system.
The contact circuit breaker is just a switch inside the flywheel that will trigger the spark plug to fire at the right moment of the combustion cycle.
The engine did not actually generate any power for the ignition system.
The first is simple: Additional negative (black)
Go to the wire of the engine.
This wire can be connected to any conductive part of the engine assembly.
On cars and motorcycles, the metal parts of the engine come into contact with each other, which leads them to form a large electric terminal.
This wire should be attached to something safe, such as the coastal fins, head bolts, curved boxes, etc.
I prefer to wrap this wire around the bolt and tighten it.
There should be no paint and debris in the place of your choice and I would suggest polishing it.
The harder part now is: connect the red-marked wires coming out of the engine.
This line must be directly connected to the contact circuit breaker inside the flywheel.
Here are the steps to get access :-
Remove the side cover on the flywheel.
Depending on your model, this may be the cover on the left or right, or it may be the cover for oil control.
On my Honda xr, I removed the left side lid to touch the flywheel and it didn\'t block any oil. -
Remove the flywheel. 1-
To remove the nut, the flywheel must be locked in place, otherwise it will simply turn.
You can lock it in place using special tools.
Alternatively, you can lock it this way: remove the spark plug and feed the wire or rope down into the cylinder.
Once there is enough material to lock the piston in the head, the flywheel will catch and you can remove the nut.
It is a regular right-hand threaded nut that is released anti-clockwise.
Make sure you are able to remove any material you enter into the cylinder and leave no debris. 2-
Pull the flywheel down
Even if the nut is turned off, it is almost impossible to slide the flywheel down by hand.
There is a risk in using the pry tool, so I would suggest using the special universal flywheel tool I mentioned.
This tool is actually screwed into the hole in the center of the flywheel frame.
It is the left hand line, so it is necessary to turn counter-clockwise to tighten.
Once the tool is firmly connected, simply tighten the bolt to the tool hole and it will force the flywheel to fall off.
Turn off the flywheel rack and you will see the first picture.
The stator is a set of copper coils around the crankshaft.
The number of coils varies from bike to bike. Mine had 2.
Just a warning that if you have a lighting system it will not work if you remove the stator.
You can find a way to connect the lights to the battery, but I won\'t explain that.
You can even use the mixing method to power the ignition with battery and stator lights, however, you have to figure it out yourself again and re-wire it after disconnecting the stator from the ignition.
I removed the entire stator just to make it out of the way and make things easier.
With the flywheel off, we finally found the circuit breaker point we needed.
The second picture is the contact circuit breaker Assembly removed from the engine.
The third is the contact circuit breaker connected to the engine.
Please note that your contact breaker point will look like this.
This is the last wire.
Wires marked with red (
In the figure, it will be connected directly to the contact circuit breaker point.
There should already be wires connected to the circuit breaker point, right where we need to place new wires.
You need to remove the old wires and place the wires of the new system where the old ones are.
If you don\'t have a wire there yet, look for a note for the second picture for that location. (
* You need to maximize the picture in order to view the notes *)
It is important to place the right position.
There is usually a nut where you can fix the wires.
If you put this line in the wrong position on the contact circuit breaker, it will contact the first line directly, bypassing the switching effect of the system.
Without the Switch Effect of the contact circuit breaker, the spark will never catch fire.
Make sure you fix this wire in the right place.
Once properly connected, you must deliver the last wire out of the engine.
Make sure to route it in a way that avoids moving parts.
There is often a hole on the side cover to send out the wire.
When the wire goes out, put the flywheel back in place and replace the side cover.
As I suggested earlier, I suggest installing individual parts into your system in a convenient way, and then connecting them together later.
Just make sure the ignition coils and capacitors are close to each other. Tips: -
Fix the assembly and wiring in the position you want using hot glue. -
The hot glue on the glue gun is very useful and very strong.
Wipe the two mating surfaces with acetone or alcohol first, and then let them dry completely before bonding.
I kindly ask you to take the cleaning measures!
A little bit of dirt can cause this method to fail.
You will have a very strong bond even though you are doing well. -
Rubbing Alcohol/acetone can easily remove hardened hot glue if you make a mistake. -
Once everything is confirmed to work properly and the wiring is correct, put a small amount of solder at each connection.
This will prevent the wires from physically separating and from losing electrical contact due to corrosion.
Imagine that while using your machine, there was something small that failed, causing the whole system to fail, and had to find the problem through each small piece.
On my Honda car, I stuck the parts in front of the frame.
I stick the toggle switch near the original kill switch on the handle and weave the wire back to other elements.
The hardest thing to install is the battery.
I stick the battery heat to a piece of wood and screw the wood to the front fender at the bottom.
The battery is actually quite safe under this arrangement. Congrats!
If you have done this, you should be ready to rock with your new high power ignition system.
Make sure to turn off the switch without running, otherwise the battery will run out.
If the system is not working for some reason, it is almost guaranteed that there is an open or discontinuous circuit.
To test this, you need to use the resistance settings on the Ohm/multimeter in the 200 ohm or minimum range settings.
In general, the way you do this is to connect each lead in series with the circuit you are testing.
The battery should be separated from the system, so the wires leading to it are convenient test points.
Reading 1 on the display indicates that the circuit is disconnected or \"open \".
Any resistance value shown indicates that the circuit is continuous or \"closed \".
In this particular circuit, the resistance should be around 5 ohms.
If you find that your system is open, follow these steps: When doing this, make sure that the switch is in the on position.
If this does not work, try turning the engine slowly to make sure the contact breaker is in the off position.
The contact circuit breaker is also a switch that is controlled by the position of the flywheel.
The contact circuit breaker switch will open (turn off)
Cycle at least once per burn, sometimes twice.
Once you\'re sure both switches are off, check them one by one.
For example, put test leads on a branch of the system.
First, let\'s go from the battery wires you use to the resistors.
If it is open, then your problem is on this branch.
Check to ensure the connection is safe and the wire insulation at the contact point is completely removed.
It is possible to have a burnt component, so check the terminal of the component in the bad branch. (
This does not work for capacitors that should be registered as open on their terminals)
If it is continuous, the problem lies elsewhere.
Expand the branch.
Let\'s go from the battery wire to the ignition coil.
Then repeat the process until you find an open branch.
Once this is discovered, you know that the problem is in the latest addition to the branch and you can fix the connection problem.
The second and unlikely reason for the system failure is the problem with the contact circuit breaker.
If the whole system gets a good reading from the meter, but the spark plug still does not catch fire, this may be the case.
Turn the engine slowly when the meter is connected to the whole system and gives a closed circuit reading.
During a full engine cycle, the reading must be briefly registered for discontinuous when the contact breaker switch is on.
During the normal engine cycle, the opening of the contact circuit breaker switch will trigger the spark plug to catch fire.
If the reading is not recorded during the cycle and a point is not recorded, there is a problem with the contact circuit breaker point.
This may be caused by wiring the contact circuit breaker assembly in the wrong place, or it may be a mechanical problem at the contact circuit breaker point.
Finally, a short circuit can cause a system failure.
Electricity is always the easiest way to go, so it will if there is a chance to bypass the element through a better conductor.
Look for places where foreign conductive materials may lean against terminals of various components.
This includes frames: they are short-circuited if the terminals or non-insulated lines are in contact with the frame.
There are several ways to charge the battery. 1.
Buy a charger designed for 12 volt battery charging.
This is the easiest and fastest way to do it, but it will cost at least $30 to buy a unit, ranging in size from shoe boxes to suitcases. 2. Use your car.
As shown in the figure, the battery to be charged is connected to the car battery, positive to positive, negative to negative.
Assuming that the battery capacity you charge is much lower than the car battery, it should not cause the car battery to run out to a harmful level.
The next time you run the car, the AC generator will fully charge the battery of the car and replenish your energy.
If you worry about running out of the car\'s battery too far while doing this, you can run the car in the process, in which case the alternator will be the power to charge.
Assuming you\'re like me and don\'t want to drive in order to charge the battery, you can even hide the battery somewhere under the hood, the cable is connected and when you drive to handle your normal business, leave it there.
In this case, the AC generator will provide a charge, not the battery of the car. 3.
Make a charger (simple).
For this method, you need a power transformer for the equipment you no longer need. (
Big butt plug, small wire, end joint, look at the picture)
I have a stock of old electronics that haven\'t been in stock for a long time.
You can buy it online, in thrift stores or in any used e-store.
These things are cheap, less than 5 yuan a bottle.
Make sure it has a rated power of about 15 watts.
Update 4/21/14: I just learned that the smaller \"12\" volt lead-acid battery is actually slightly higher than the output voltage of the car battery due to structural changes.
I think they can output at least 13 volts.
This means that for smaller lead-acid batteries, the numbers in the paragraph below are incorrect.
This problem came up when I was 13.
The 8 volt power transformer is working to produce the charging current required for about 1. 0 Amps--
Its output is only 0. 03 Amps.
I don\'t know the safe range of the charging voltage of this special structure of the battery, so it needs further testing, but it will definitely be higher than the previous range.
If you have any comments on this, please make them in the comments.
Update 4/25/14: I found that producing a 15 volt charger is enough to charge the battery in a reasonable amount of time.
I don\'t know if this voltage is high enough to overcharge the battery if it is charged indefinitely.
As mentioned earlier, the guide to the normal 12 volt battery is not very applicable, as the smaller battery is different from the structure to produce the 13 Volt battery
14 v so I don\'t have a reference range for the charger voltage.
If you worry about charging, you can unplug the charger in a few hours.
In any case, most of the charge is done near the beginning.
Or, you can put an ammeter in order to check the status (multimeter)
In series with the charger.
When the current drops significantly from the initial reading, it is time to disconnect.
Make sure the meter is within 10 Am p or similar.
This setting usually requires the leader to be moved to a different port.
I am using a universal laptop charger and the end is prepared in the same way as the wall charger.
It is unusual for a normal wall charger to be 15 + V, so you may have to spend $10 on a laptop charger.
I will consolidate this page in a few weeks to remove outdated material.
What I want to say is, what I want to say.
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The voltage of the power adapter is listed on its label).
This will ensure the battery is charged but will not overcharge.
This process may be faster if you use a higher voltage charger, but you are at risk of damaging the battery because the battery will not stop after it is completed.
If you plan to charge in a cold place, maybe a garage, see this guide because the voltage of the charger needs to be different in order to charge safely and effectively.
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Once you have the transformer, cut off the connector at the end.
Peel the insulation back far enough to put on the crocodile clip.
Once you open the clip, you need to figure out which thread is positive and which one is negative.
Use the voltmeter function of the multimeter within the appropriate voltage range to connect the lead of the meter to the crocodile clip on the power supply.
The voltage reading should be anything you are using, but we are concerned about the symbol here.
If the symbol of the reading is positive, then the leads on the charger correspond directly to the meter test leads they are connected. (
Crocodile clip attached to red (positive)
The test lead is positive, the clip attached to the black (negative)
Test lead is negative)
If the reading is negative, the charger leads are the opposite of the test leads they are connected.
Make sure the test lead is set correctly on the mulimeter!
If you plug them in the wrong place, the result is wrong!
Be sure to tag which charger lead or you will do it again!
Use this charger to charge your battery, clip the positive clip of the charger on the positive end, from negative to negative.
It may take a while for this method, but the price is correct.
I used 13 in my example.
The 8 v transformer I found in the basement.